Advanced category: 20/23
The girls and I packed up the car last Friday afternoon and headed to Watertown, Massachusetts for The Heist 2015! This competition is special and rare – not often do you see all female route-setters as well as climbers dominating the scene.
As our first comp of the season, we were pretty nervous the day of. We arrived at Central Rock Gym at about 10am, after stewing in the car for about an hour on our drive from our hotel. I was nervous because we had never been to a comp in the States before, and I was ready to see some really jacked, really strong women. I was bracing myself for the intimidation.
We arrived, signed in and found a place on the large mats to warm up. They discussed the rules, which were the same rules as any other comp, and we got on our way. We were star struck right away when we saw Ashima and Megan Martin warming up on some of the hardest problems there (we eventually got their autographs – squeel!).
The next 3 hours went by incredibly fast. I flashed a couple of harder crimpy and slopey routes which were pretty straight forward beta wise. I eventually moved on to some harder, longer routes which required more intricate moves. My favourite route was a dyno start to a vertical rectangle block with good feet. The rest of the route consisted of a sequence of crimps in various sizes on a slightly overhung wall. I made it 3/4 of the way up several times but was consistently shut down on a difficult rose move off of a small crimp with slopey feet.
There were many noteable routes, too many to list off. The route setting was on point – not once did we come across a route that was awkward or redundant. I was impressed with the amount of effort and creativity put forth in the route setting.
The atmosphere was also quite interesting. As it was all women, it seemed to be more friendly than most comps I’ve been to. The amount of female climbers at our gym is quite small – typically there are the same 3 girls (myself included) who are pinning for the number one spot at our local comps. The female competition is quite scarce. It was nice to steal beta from other women, and to watch some of them crush stuff like you wouldn’t believe.
This comp was a nice warm up for comp season. I learned that I need to work more on power endurance, because I frequently started off a route strong, but was too tired by the end to link together the last few hard moves. I also need to work on finger strength. Many of these routes involved crimp after crimp, and my fingers didn’t hold up as well as I would have liked. My pulley injury wasn’t helping, but I think it’s still something I could improve.
Overall, great trip. We will definitely be back next year 🙂
climb on xx