Last weekend I participated in my first dyno competition at Seven Bays Bouldering in Halifax and it was awesome. For my non-climber readers, “dyno” refers to the dynamic movement of jumping from holds to holds, which results in a pretty bad-ass looking maneuver. At least, I think most climbers would agree it’s pretty bad ass.
This particular comp followed what I think was a typical dyno comp format. There were 10 dynos, each with their own points. The easiest dyno was worth 100 points, the second hardest was 200 points, and so on, up to the hardest route of 1000 points. Scoring was based on whether or not you got the move, so attempts did not matter. Whether you tried it once or 20 times, you ultimately received the same amount of points.
In 2 hours, I managed to score 1000 points. I got 100 (grey), 200 (yellow), 300 (green), 400 (brown) and was so close to getting 500! I tried the 500 (blue) dyno so many times, but just couldn’t stick the two compression slopers. I wish I had tried 600 and 700 but I felt too intimidated with all the guys doing so well around me. I am so easily intimidated, it’s not even funny! Overall though, I think I did well. They were all well set, so they were fun to work although the only dyno I really had to work was 500.
Something that really shocked me was that I was the only woman competing! I expected less women than men, but I was hoping to see at least a hand full of women. My wonderful friend began the comp, but felt too pressured with all the male competition around her to keep going. She ended up just climbing routes in the gym and having a blast anyway. That pressure actually worked in my favour (minus the intimidation) because it made me calculate and plan my moves before I executed them.
It goes without saying that I placed first in the woman’s category and scored some sweet Friction Labs chalk. We can pretend like the competition was fierce, and it was a close battle, though.
Climb on xx