Dover Island – August 2016


Loading the boat

Another great weekend in the books! Dover Island is hands down one of my favourite places in the world. And, it just happens to be one of the best bouldering spots in Canada (I’m giving it that title right now). I’m a boulderer at heart with not much for outdoor bouldering where I live, so Dover is basically heaven on earth. If you ever visit Atlantic Canada, it is definitely worth a visit.

We arrived on the boat Saturday morning and the sun was just blazing! After setting up tents, we discussed checking out the boulders and then holding off until night fall for climbing, but it was obvious no one was going to stick to that. It was just too tempting, especially since we only had a day and a half on the island.


Orangahang V6

I felt pretty good. I warmed up at the warm up wall and did some stretches but I didn’t climb a whole lot in the morning to save my skin for the climbs I really wanted to get to. Orangahang V6 and Bulldog V6 had my name written all over them. Dover’s greatest feature is also its greatest weakness – the razor sharp granite crystals are great for friction, but terrible for spending a lot of time on routes! You really have to think about what you want to spend your skin on, before you start climbing.

Orangahang V6 could have gone better for me, but it got quite a few sends from our group which was awesome to see. I got some really good beta, but I just couldn’t piece it together. I made slight progress from last year so I was happy, but honestly, I was just as happy seeing so many people either send or come really close to sending. For me, I know I can do it I just really have bare down and push through the sharpness of the rock.


I had a revelation on Bulldog V6. Last year, I could only do 2 moves before falling off. When we arrived, I was telling my friends that it was absolutely impossible. Like, I really thought that all the moves were too reachy, I didn’t have the finger strength or the endurance to do any of the moves. That’s what I had envisioned from failing so hard last year. WELL, I made it MUCH further than I expected. It’s a long route, and I made it out to the mantel section of the roof. I didn’t have the strength this year to finish it, but I know it’ll go down next year. It’s been a long time since I’ve felt strong on any route, and that in itself was worth the trip 🙂

We left Sunday afternoon completely exhausted. I don’t think I had any more energy or skin to give, so it was the perfect amount of time

I’ve been packing and moving all week, so I haven’t had much time to post but I promise to get back into the groove as soon as I can! This week has thrown off my workouts as well, although walking up and down 3 flights of stairs 75973 times has really taken its toll on every part of my body!

Climb on xx

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